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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar high-end names. However, nestled high among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.